How to Use a Mechanical Watch

To use a mechanical watch, you must know the basic settings. Because Mechanical watches, timeless symbols of craftsmanship and precision, are functional timepieces and intricate works of art. In contrast to its quartz cousins that run on batteries, mechanical timepieces use a sophisticated system of springs and gears to maintain time. You will learn the basics of operating and caring for a mechanical watch from this book, guaranteeing its longevity and good performance.

Understanding Mechanical Watches

Before diving into the usage, it’s essential to grasp the basic mechanics and types of mechanical watches.

Types of Mechanical Watches:

1. Manual-Winding Watches: Regular winding by hand is required to maintain its power reserve.
2. Automatic (Self-Winding) Watches: Wind themselves using the motion of the wearer’s wrist.

Key Components:

• Mainspring: Stores energy when wound.
• Gear Train: Transmits energy from the mainspring to the escapement.
• Escapement: Regulates the release of energy, maintaining consistent timekeeping.
• Balance Wheel: Oscillates to control the timing of the escapement.
• Dial and Hands: Display the time.

How to Wind a Mechanical Watch

Winding is crucial for manual and automatic watches, though the latter also self-winds through movement.

a. Manual-Winding Watches:

1. Frequency: Wind daily, preferably at the same time each day.
2. Method:
   • Take the watch off your wrist to prevent placing too much strain on the winding stem.
   • Hold the crown (the small knob on the side) between your thumb and forefinger.
   • Turn the crown clockwise until you feel resistance. Avoid over-winding, as this can damage the mainspring.

b. Automatic Watches:

1. Wearing: Wear the watch daily for at least 8 hours to ensure it stays wound.
2. Manual Winding (if not worn regularly):
   • Follow the same steps as a manual watch to give it an initial wind, usually about 20-30 turns.

c. Setting the Time and Date

Accurate time and date setting are crucial for maintaining the watch’s precision.

1. Pulling the Crown:
   • Most mechanical watches have a crown that can be pulled out to different positions.
   • The first position is for winding (if applicable), the second for setting the Date, and the third for setting the time.
2. Setting the Time:
   • Pull the crown to the outermost position.
   • Turn the crown to move the hands to the correct time. Move the hands forward rather than backward to avoid damaging the movement.
3. Setting the Date(if applicable):
   • Pull the crown to the middle position.
   • Turn the crown to change the Date. Don’t alter the Date between 9 PM and 3 AM, as the date-change mechanism might be engaged, risking damage.

d. Adjusting Complications

Complications include features beyond essential timekeeping, such as clocks, moon phases, and GMT functions.

1. Chronographs:
   • Start/stop the timer using the top pusher.
   • Reset the timer using the bottom pusher.
2. GMT Watches:
   • Set the primary time zone as usual.
   • Adjust the GMT hand independently, usually through the crown or an additional pusher.
3. Moon Phase:
   • They are typically adjusted via a pusher or the crown.
   • Set according to a moon phase calendar to ensure accuracy.

e. Maintenance and Care

Proper maintenance is essential for your mechanical watch to last a long time.

1. Regular Servicing:
   • Mechanical watches should be servicing every 3-5 years by a professional watchmaker to clean, lubricate, and calibrate the movement.
2. Cleaning:
   • Clean the watch case and bracelet regularly with a soft cloth.
   • Avoid immersing the watch in water unless rated explicitly for water resistance.
3. Avoiding Magnets:
   • Keep the watch away from strong magnetic fields, which can disrupt its accuracy.
4. Storage:
   • Keep the watch somewhere dry and cool.
   • Use a watch box or a pouch to protect it from dust and scratches.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

1. Watch Stopping:
   • Check if the watch needs winding.
   • Ensure it has been worn enough if it’s an automatic watch.
   • If it still stops, it may need servicing.
2. Inaccurate Timekeeping:
   • A variation of a few seconds per day is normal.
   • More significant discrepancies may require regulation by a watchmaker.
3. Condensation Under the Crystal:
   • Indicates moisture has entered the case.
   • Take the watch to a professional immediately to prevent movement damage.

Enhancing the Experience

1. Watch Straps:
   • Experiment with different straps (leather, metal, NATO) to change the watch’s appearance and comfort.
2. Watch Winders:
   • If you rotate several automatic watches regularly, consider getting a watch winder.
   • A winder keeps the watch wound and ready to wear.
3. Understanding Heritage:
   • Learn about the history and craftsmanship of your watch brand.
   • This knowledge enhances appreciation and connection to the timepiece.

Final Thoughts for Using a Mechanical Watch

Owning a mechanical watch is a rewarding experience that connects you to centuries of horological tradition. By understanding the mechanics, mastering winding and setting techniques, maintaining the watch, and addressing common issues, you ensure that your mechanical watch remains a reliable and cherished companion for years. Embrace the art of mechanical watches, and you’ll find joy in their precision and legacy.

FAQs on Using a Mechanical Watch

How often should I wind my mechanical watch?

Manual-winding watches should be winded daily, ideally, simultaneously each day, to keep the watch running accurately. Automatic (self-winding) watches wind themselves with the motion of your wrist but may require manual winding if worn sparingly. About 20-30 turns should suffice for an automatic watch worn for a while.

Why is my mechanical watch losing or gaining time?

Due to their intricate mechanics, mechanical watches can gain or lose a few seconds daily. This is normal. However, if your watch is gaining or losing several minutes daily, it may need regulation by a professional watchmaker. Other factors affecting timekeeping include exposure to solid magnets, temperature changes, and the need for servicing.

Can I swim or shower with my mechanical watch?

Whether you can swim or shower with your mechanical watch depends on its water resistance rating. Watches rated at least 50 meters (5 ATM) can handle brief immersion, while those rated 100 meters (10 ATM) or more are suitable for swimming. However, avoiding exposing your mechanical watch to water is generally recommended unless it is specifically designed for such activities.

How do I correctly set the Date on my mechanical watch?

To set the Date on your mechanical watch:

• Pull the crown to the middle position.
• Turn the crown to adjust the Date. To avoid damaging the movement, avoid setting the Date between 3 AM and 9 PM, as this is when the date-change mechanism might be activated.
• Push the crown back to its normal position after setting the Date.

How often should my mechanical watch be serviced?

Mechanical watches should generally be serviced every 3-5 years. Regular servicing includes cleaning, lubricating, and calibrating the movement to ensure optimal performance and longevity. Delaying service can result in worn-out components and reduced accuracy, potentially leading to more costly repairs.